DeSoto Exploring the South May 2010 : Page 54

s local flavor Fresh Philosophy Text by Lesley Young / Photography by Dana Finimore Out of the many places Joel Miller has cooked for a living—including Memphis, Puerto Rico, and New Orleans—San Francisco ranks in the top percentile. “It was great. They would offer to send me to Napa and Sonoma Valley to stay and visit and taste the wines,” says the 35 year old chef. “We would sit out on these wrap around porches in the countryside at these mom and pop run bed and breakfasts with small restaurants. It was terrific.” After having his first son and returning to the South to be near family, Miller decided to offer something similar to Oxford’s residents and visitors. Nearly three years ago, Miller opened up Ravine, a restaurant and bed and breakfast inside a large log cabin 54 DeSoto situated on two acres just three miles from downtown Oxford. Miller describes the cuisine as “Southern contemporary.” “It’s Southern, but we try to lighten it up a little bit, so it’s not the heavy dishes like old school Southern style food,” Miller says. “We do a little bit of everything. I try to draw from my past experiences in the different places I’ve cooked.” That includes Memphis hot spots Automatic Slim’s and the Beauty Shop, a resort in Vieques, Puerto Rico, where he served as a sous chef, the Ritz Carlton in New Orleans,

Local Flavor

Lesley Young

Fresh Philosophy

Out of the many places Joel Miller has cooked for a living—including Memphis, Puerto Rico, and New Orleans—San Francisco ranks in the top percentile.

“It was great. They would offer to send me to Napa and Sonoma Valley to stay and visit and taste the wines,” says the 35 year old chef. “We would sit out on these wrap around porches in the countryside at these mom and pop run bed and breakfasts with small restaurants. It was terrific.” After having his first son and returning to the South to be near family, Miller decided to offer something similar to Oxford’s residents and visitors.

Nearly three years ago, Miller opened up Ravine, a restaurant and bed and breakfast inside a large log cabin situated on two acres just three miles from downtown Oxford.

Miller describes the cuisine as “Southern contemporary.” “It’s Southern, but we try to lighten it up a little bit, so it’s not the heavy dishes like old school Southern style food,” Miller says. “We do a little bit of everything. I try to draw from my past experiences in the different places I’ve cooked.” That includes Memphis hot spots Automatic Slim’s and the Beauty Shop, a resort in Vieques, Puerto Rico, where he served as a sous chef, the Ritz Carlton in New Orleans, And Johnson and Wales University in South Carolina, where he earned his culinary degree.

“I’ll do country pork ribs but coat them with a Jamaican jerk sauce ($18) or bison strip loin served with a bordelaise made with green peppercorns ($27),” Miller explains.

“Our philosophy is one of eating just a little bit lighter.” Included in that philosophy is cooking with the freshest ingredients he can get his hands on.

During the day, his kitchen stays busy unloading deliveries from local growers, including eggs, milk, cheese, beef, quail, pork, and duck.

Patrons who vie to sit on the porch get a close up view of his five gardens, where he grows his own herbs and seasonal plants, including eggplant, squash, zucchini, okra, tomatoes, watermelon, and strawberries.

“We try to change our menu to Accommodate our garden and use it,” he says.

“I’ve always been a fan of cooking and eating fresh food that’s preservative and chemical free. That’s something we push a lot.” Since obtaining his liquor license last fall, Miller has used his knowledge as a wine buyer in San Francisco by offering wine pairings once a month.

“Wine makes the food taste better and vice versa. Each is enhanced when paired correctly, and that’s something I want to share with the people here.” So far, he has hosted a German wine pairing and a Sauvignon Blanc night, highlighting which wines match with local food. “Our food is really wine friendly,” he says.

The food gets even lighter on Wednesday nights, when Miller serves only tapas, or small plates, for $3 to $10.

On Sundays, he departs from his traditional menu for a Sunday brunch, which he describes as “simple and done well,” serving the Ravine breakfast: Eggs Benedict or silver dollar pancakes.

Following brunch, foodies can try his prix fixe menu called “Sunday Supper,” with three courses for $23.

Visitors who opt to stay overnight can choose from two cozy guestrooms upstairs at the restaurant or a cabin that accommodates up to four guests right next door. A full breakfast is served each morning as well as Sunday brunch.

Miller doesn’t have to travel far to work. He and his wife, Cori Benefiel, and their three year old son, Henry Miller, live in the three rooms upstairs. “In some ways it’s good,” he explains, “because you always know what’s going on. But, then again, you’re always staring at the same four walls.” With a painting of a California vineyard placed above the dining room’s massive stone fireplace and a porch overlooking his wooded back yard, the walls don’t close in too often.

“It’s dead quiet out here. There’s no noise pollution or light pollution, and it’s only a five minute drive from the Square,” he smiles.

Ravine

53 CR 321, Oxford, Miss.

(662) 234 4555 www.oxfordravine.com

Dinner: Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, 6

p. m. to 9 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday brunch: 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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